It’s hard to stand out in south London’s food-filled Borough, the bustling market of which offers every kind of cuisine imaginable. But this small pasta bar from Jordan Frieda (son of John; yes, he has lucious locks) and Tim Siadatan – the duo behind Islington’s delightfully simple Italian restaurant Trullo – draws a mighty crowd.
Padella has a short menu: a few antipasti, six or so pastas and a couple of puddings. And the hand-rolled pasta is the star of the show. The pair serve it, in its various guises, with sauces and fillings inspired by their trips to Italy: there’s pici cacio e pepe (wriggly Tuscan noodles with pecorino romano and tonnes of black pepper) and tagliatelle with nduja, mascarpone and parsley. They combine traditional Italian techniques with fresh British produce: pillowy ravioli comes with goat’s curd from nearby Neal’s Yard.
During the day, expect to wait in line. In the evening, you can leave your number and go and have a drink while you wait. It’s affordable – about £7 for a plate of pasta – but the portions aren’t huge. Fine by us: we’ll order three or four between two.
Padella, 6 Southwark Street, London, SE1 1TQ.
Photo: Hannah Hoskins.