Food: Trullo



We’ve already sung the praises of Jordan Frieda and Tim Siadatan’s Padella but before the duo brought our favourite pasta bar to Borough, they introduced Highbury to a new neighbourhood Italian: Trullo.

On the ground floor, Trullo looks like a typical Tuscan trattoria: wooden floors, white walls and net curtains to halfway up the windows. Downstairs the vibe’s a little more east London – think exposed pipes and industrial lighting – but an open kitchen and cosy booths continue to create the feeling that you’re in a nonna’s dining room.

The short menu is as simple as the setting and split into antipasti (such as crostini topped with broad beans, chilli and oregano), primi (three or four homemade pastas), oven and charcoal grill. Naturally the pastas are the stars of the show – the tagliatelle with buttery violetta artichokes is hard to beat – but don’t disregard the fish and meat options: monkfish comes with agretti (a popular Italian land seaweed), mussels, cream and prosecco; while dorset lamb is drizzled with green-olive dressing and served on a bed of Castellucio lentils.

As always, save room for something sweet – and look no further if the ever-changing menu features the tangy Amalfi lemon tart.

Trullo, 300-302 St Paul’s Road, London, N1 2LH.

Photo: Hannah Hoskins.

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