Food: Olmsted

Cheese & Wine


Olmsted is best known for its vegetable-forward, seasonal, delicate, farm-to-table driven food. What nobody tells you is that it also offers cheese fondue and wine in its beautiful garden.

This restaurant’s backyard may just be the best in Brooklyn. Herbs and vegetables fill a central raised flowerbed, whose edges are topped with small tables, and benches run around it, backing onto more edible treats. Fairy lights are strewn overhead and, on a summer’s evening, fireflies dart through the space. Two quails nestle in a hut in the corner. Cosy up on a bench (in the winter months you’ll be warmed by heaters and Pendelton blankets), order a bottle of your favorite wine and dive into the cheese fondue (for two).

Unsurprisingly, this isn’t your regular fondue: Harbison, a runny, soft-rind cheese from Vermont’s Jasper Hill Creamery, is sliced in half and briefly broiled, transforming it first to oozy deliciousness and then to melted perfection.

Help your body wash it down with a hot mug of tea from the extensive tea menu. Sipping some light Japanese tisane gives you an excuse to linger a little longer, before leaving the magical garden and returning to real life in NYC.

Olmsted, 659 Vanderbilt Avenue, Brooklyn, NY 11238.

Photo: Evan Sung.

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